NARS Cosmetics was backstage creating the makeup look for Marchesa’s Autumn/Winter 2009 show.  Below is information on the look and attached is an image and face chart for your reference.  Please let me know if you have any questions.

SHOW: Marchesa

LEAD ARTIST: Talia Shobrook for NARS Cosmetics

TREND: Wild brows, matte skin

Inspiration:  Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig created their Fall 2009 collection with fairytales in mind.  To highlight this theme, Talia Shobrook created a whimsical look from her vision of a naughty aristocrat running out of a party, “like a young girl going into the woods wearing a gorgeous ball gown, putting on makeup rather naively,” she explained.

Look:  Wild brows atop flawless skin was the focus of the look.  “I used a dash of Madrague brown shadow and went right into the inner corners of the brows,” said Talia.  To capture the look of a tousled young girl, the brows were brushed in an unnatural direction. Beneath the brows was a colored lid of matte white, as if applied in a fleeting moment by a true makeup novice.  Soft lips complemented the perfect skin.  


Below is a step-by-step to recreate the look:

Face
·         Lightly exfoliate and smooth skin with NARSskin Hydrating Freshening Lotion

·         Moisturize with NARSskin Aqua Gel Hydrator

·         Use NARS Sheer Glow Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) in the center of the face and buff out for a neutral base

·         Apply NARS Concealer generously, to cover any imperfections

·         Apply NARS Loose Powder for matte finish
Eyes:

·         Apply NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Kilimanjaro (icy yellow and icy blue sides) to entire lid, all the way to the brow, in a block shape, not blending

·         Apply NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Madrague (cream side) on top 

·         Dash of the brown in NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Madrague (caramel side) into the inner top corners of the brows, pushing the hair in opposite directions

·         Curl lashes with NARS Eyelash Curler

·         Coat top lashes with NARS Larger than Life Volumizing Mascara in Black (NEW for Fall 2009)

Lips:

·         Massage light layer of NARS Lip Lacquer in Chelsea Girls

·         Apply a bit of NARS Concealer to center of lip for matte look

In case you missed it, check out Eye4Style's backstage report.

HOW: 3.1 phillip lim

LEAD ARTIST: Ayako, International Makeup Director, NARS Cosmetics

TREND: Wispy lashes, translucent matte skin

Inspiration: The Fall 2009 collection took inspiration from the mythical spirit of rock and roll, while the hair and makeup was created to emulate Tao Okamoto’s look, a Japanese model in Phillip Lim’s Fall 2009 collection. Fused together, Phillip wanted the makeup look to mirror Tao’s mod style with a touch of rock n’ roll.  With this in mind, Ayako created a look centered around “poetic mod-rock.”

Look: False lashes were placed on the outer half of the bottom lash line and was the central focus of the look.  For an exaggerated effect, matte charcoal shadow was used with a wet eyeliner brush to draw lashes beneath, as if to create a shadow effect.  “This is the poetic part of the look,” said Ayako.  As a complement to the wispy lashes, shimmering pink and gold shadows covered the lids, while the lips were muted with concealer.  Skin was made flawless with the newly formulated sheer matte foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) to counteract the sleepy look of the lengthy bottom lashes.  Atop the matte skin, a gentle sweep of shimmer was added to cheekbones to catch the light.

Below is a step-by-step to recreate the look:

Face

· Apply NARS Concealer generously, to cover any imperfections

· Use a small amount of NARS Sheer Matte Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) to create even, beautiful skin

· With NARS Yachiyo Brush, dust NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bombshell from apple of cheeks up to temples for a light shimmer without pigment

Eyes:

· Line lower lashes with NARS Glittler Pencil in Danceteria

· Smudge with finger to bring out gold shine

· Use NARS Eye Contour Brush to layer rose gold with golden flecks side of NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Silk Road (NEW for Fall 2009) over Danceteria

· Apply frosted champagne side of NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Indian Summer (NEW for Fall 2009) over entire lid, blending up to brow

· Cut a set of false eyelashes in half and apply to outer half of lower lash line

· Apply NARS Larger than Life Volumizing Mascara (NEW for Fall 2009) to lower lashes

· Wet NARS Liquid Eyeliner Brush and apply matte charcoal side of NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Brumes (NEW for Fall 2009), drawing lash shadows on outer half of lower lash line

Lips:

· Apply a generous amount of NARS Concelear to entire lip

SHOW: Marc Jacobs

LEAD ARTIST: François Nars, Founder and Creative Director of NARS Cosmetics

TREND: Night clubbing – theatrical makeup – strong eyes, porcelain skin

Inspiration: The Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 collection paid homage to the New York night club scene of the 1970s and ‘80s.  Drawing inspiration from these decades and the works of Sprouse, St. Laurent, and Halston, François Nars took into consideration each model’s individual beauty before creating a separate edgy look, reminiscent of the past but still very modern. "We are doing quite an eclectic look," he said. The inspiration for diversity came from Nars’ book XRAY.  “[Marc] wanted to keep that feeling,” said Nars, “the variety of looks, the same way we do the campaigns for NARS.”  Overall, it was important that each girl look beautiful, even with strong theatrical looks.  Much like the fashion, Nars emphasized having fun with makeup for the coming year, despite the times we live in- “It’s a good antidote.”

Look: Focusing on an edgy, night clubbing look, strong eyes and bold color were a major theme.  Black shadow laid the foundation for creating the dramatic eye, to which the artists added cobalt blues, deep greens, bright purples, reds, fuchsias, and glitter.  “There is a wide variety of color,” said Nars, “it’s whatever looks good on the girl.”  For many of the models, porcelain skin was a key component, allowing the black eyes and bright colors to pop.  “You want to play with makeup,” says Nars, “makeup is a great accessory - that is the message.”

SHOW: Thakoon

LEAD ARTIST: Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics

TREND: Smoky eyes

Inspiration: The collection took inspiration from the 1940’s, reflecting the surrealist images of photographer Lee Miller.  Combined with a bit of 80’s rock and roll glam, makeup artist Diane Kendal created a strong look without being too girly.

Look: “The look is all about the eyes with soft matte lips for contrast,” said Diane Kendal. To bring strength to the face, Diane focused on creating smoky eyes and full brows, while downplaying the lips and keeping skin fresh with a light brushing of blush for a healthy glow.

Face

· Use NARSskin Hydrating Moisture Cream to moisturize entire face

· Apply NARS Concealer as needed, to cover any imperfections

· Use a minimal amount of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009)

· Lightly stroke NARS Blush in Gilda on the apples of the cheeks

Eyes:

· Use NARS Eyeliner Pencil in Mambo to line upper lashes and crease

· Blend over entire lid and up to brows, keeping dense color by lashline

· With Mambo, line lower lashes and gently blend

· Use NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bali to fill in brows

· Draw a very thin line on upper lashes with NARS Eyeliner Stylo in Black (NEW for Fall 2009)

· Curl lashes with NARS Eyelash Curler

Lips:

· Apply NARS Lip Therapy Treatment in Rain to entire lip

· Lightly pat a small amount of NARS Concealer over Rain to take down color

SHOW: Hervé Léger

LEAD ARTIST: Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics

TREND: Strong brow, dewy skin

Inspiration: For Fall 2009, Hervé Léger drums to the beat of an urban tribe with a gradient palette of earth tones polished by rich shades of deep ebony.  Makeup artist Diane Kendal drew inspiration from Helmut Newton photographs, using the concept of a brave warrior - strong and fierce. “The collection is very hard and sculpted so we wanted to keep the skin neutral and show strength through the eyebrows,”  said Diane.

Look: The focus was a very strong eyebrow with glowy skin, communicating strength without being too bold.  “We created very fresh, dewy skin by using the NARS Sheer Glow Foundation.  It really allowed the skin’s natural highlights to shine through,” said Diane.

Face

· Use NARSskin Hydrating Moisture Cream to moisturize

· Apply NARS Concealer as needed, to cover any imperfections

· Use a minimal amount of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) to even skin tone

Eyes:

· Brush brows to define natural shape

· With NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bali, fill in brows

· Brush again for even, natural look

· Apply gentle dusting of NARS Single Eyeshadow in Sophia to entire lid, blending up towards brows for natural shading

· Curl lashes with NARS Eyelash Curler

Lips:

· Apply NARS Lip Therapy Treatment in Rain to entire lip

· Use NARS Concealer over Rain to mute color

NARS has released the information on their Spring 2009 collection, based on a "strong, sexy woman".  The garnet eyeshadow is certainly not for the faint of heart, but what I am most looking forward to from this collection are the concealer duos.  I'm having such a concealer crisis right now, perhaps these expertly paired shades can swoop in to save the day.  The Spring 2009 collection will be available in February.

“My inspiration for spring was a very sexy woman,” explains François Nars, Founder and Creative Director of NARS Cosmetics. “I wanted a bit of a ‘70s feeling, somewhere between Guy Bourdin and Chris Von Wangenheim’s photographs— aggressive, but very sensual and fragile at the same time.”

NEW PRODUCTS
Hungry Heart Blush Duo $37.00
Duo Concealer $30.00
Vanilla/Honey
Custard/Ginger
Praline/Toffee
NEW SHADES
Duo Eyeshadow $32.00
Egea
Hula Hula
Single Eyeshadow $22.00
Baby Girl
Grenadines
Night Sun
Orgasm/South Beach Multiple Duo $45.00
Cap Vert Multiple Bronzer $37.00
Sweet Revenge Lip Gloss $24.00
Shrinagar Lipstick $24.00